Txhua lub zej zog txhais cov menyuam yaus hauv qee qhov kev txwv. Txij thaum me nyuam mos mus txog rau thaum hluas, muaj kev cia siab hauv zej zog thoob plaws ntau theem ntawm cov me nyuam txoj kev loj hlob txog lawv cov peev xwm thiab kev txwv, nrog rau lawv yuav tsum ua li cas thiab saib. Khaub ncaws ua lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm "zoo" ntawm menyuam yaus hauv txhua lub sijhawm. Ib qho kev piav qhia keeb kwm ntawm cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws muab kev nkag siab txog kev hloov pauv ntawm kev yug me nyuam txoj kev xav thiab kev coj ua, poj niam txiv neej lub luag haujlwm, txoj haujlwm ntawm cov menyuam yaus hauv zej zog, thiab qhov zoo sib xws thiab qhov sib txawv ntawm cov menyuam yaus thiab cov laus cov khaub ncaws.
Early Children's Attire
Ua ntej lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, cov khaub ncaws hnav los ntawm cov menyuam mos thiab cov menyuam yaus sib koom ua ke ib qho tshwj xeeb - lawv cov khaub ncaws tsis muaj kev sib deev. Lub hauv paus chiv keeb ntawm no nam ntawm cov me nyuam cov khaub ncaws stems los ntawm lub xyoo pua kaum rau, thaum European cov txiv neej thiab cov tub hluas pib hnav doublets ua ke nrog breeches. Yav dhau los, cov txiv neej thiab poj niam ntawm txhua lub hnub nyoog (tshwj tsis yog cov me nyuam mos swaddled) tau hnav qee yam hnav ris tsho, ris tsho, lossis tunic. Thaum cov txiv neej pib hnav khaub ncaws bifurcated, txawm li cas los xij, txiv neej thiab poj niam khaub ncaws tau sib txawv ntau dua. Breeches tau tshwj tseg rau cov txiv neej thiab cov tub hluas, thaum cov tswv cuab ntawm zej zog feem ntau ua rau cov txiv neej-tag nrho cov poj niam thiab cov tub hluas tshaj plaws-tseem hnav ris tsho hnav ris tsho. Rau cov qhov muag niaj hnub no, nws yuav tshwm sim tias thaum cov tub hluas yav dhau los hnav tiab lossis hnav ris tsho, lawv hnav "zoo li cov ntxhais," tab sis rau lawv cov neeg kawm, cov tub hluas thiab cov ntxhais tsuas yog hnav khaub ncaws zoo ib yam li cov menyuam yaus.
Swaddles and Babies
Cov kev xav tshiab tau tshwm sim nyob rau xyoo kaum xya thiab kaum yim xyoo pua txog cov menyuam yaus thiab cov menyuam yaus cuam tshuam rau menyuam yaus khaub ncaws. Cov kev cai ntawm swaddling-immobilizing cov me nyuam mos liab nrog linen wrappings tshaj lawv cov pawm thiab lub tsho-tau nyob rau hauv qhov chaw rau ntau pua xyoo. Ib qho kev ntseeg ib txwm muaj hauv qab swaddling yog tias cov menyuam mos cov ceg yuav tsum tau ncaj thiab txhawb nqa lossis lawv yuav loj hlob tuaj thiab tsis zoo. Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua thib kaum yim, kev txhawj xeeb txog kev kho mob uas swaddling tsis muaj zog ntau dua li ntxiv dag zog rau cov menyuam yaus cov ceg tawv nrog cov tswv yim tshiab txog qhov xwm txheej ntawm cov menyuam yaus thiab yuav ua li cas lawv yuav tsum tau tsa kom maj mam txo kev siv swaddling. Piv txwv li, nyob rau hauv philosopher John Locke lub influential 1693 luam tawm, Qee Qhov Kev Xav Txog Kev Kawm, nws tau tawm tswv yim tso tseg kev sib tw ua ke rau kev nyiam cov khaub ncaws xoob xoob uas tso cai rau menyuam yaus txoj kev ywj pheej ntawm kev txav mus los. Nyob rau ib puas xyoo tom ntej no, ntau tus kws sau ntawv nthuav dav ntawm Locke txoj kev xav thiab los ntawm 1800, cov niam txiv Askiv thiab Asmeskas feem ntau tsis swaddled lawv cov menyuam.
Thaum swaddling tseem yog kev cai nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov xyoo pua kaum yim, cov me nyuam raug tshem tawm ntawm swaddling nyob nruab nrab ntawm ob thiab plaub lub hlis thiab muab tso rau hauv "slip," ntev linen los yog paj rwb dresses nrog haum bodices thiab tag nrho cov tiab. ncua ib ko taw lossis ntau tshaj li ntawm cov me nyuam ko taw; cov ris tsho ntev ntev no hu ua "cov khaub ncaws ntev." Thaum cov menyuam yaus pib nkag thiab tom qab taug kev, lawv hnav "cov khaub ncaws luv" -pob taws-ntev tiab, hu ua petticoats, ua ke nrog lub cev, rov qab qhib lub cev uas nquag pob txha lossis txhav. Cov ntxhais hnav cov style no kom txog rau thaum kaum peb lossis kaum plaub, thaum lawv muab tso rau hauv pem hauv ntej-qhib khaub ncaws ntawm cov poj niam laus. Cov tub hluas hnav khaub ncaws petticoat kom txog thaum lawv muaj hnub nyoog tsawg kawg yog plaub txog rau xya xyoo, thaum lawv tau "breeched" los yog pom tias muaj kev loj hlob txaus los hnav cov khaub ncaws me me ntawm cov neeg laus cov khaub ncaws-coats, vests, thiab cov txiv neej tshwj xeeb. Lub hnub nyoog ntawm breeching txawv, nyob ntawm seb leej niam leej txiv xaiv thiab tus tub txoj kev loj hlob, uas txhais tau hais tias yuav ua li cas txiv neej nws tshwm sim thiab ua. Breeching yog ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm txoj kab ke rau cov tub hluas vim nws ua cim tias lawv tau tawm hauv menyuam yaus thiab pib ua txiv neej lub luag haujlwm thiab lub luag haujlwm.
Babies in Gowns
Raws li kev xyaum swaddling poob qis, cov menyuam yaus hnav cov ris tsho ntev ntev txij li yug mus txog tsib lub hlis. Rau cov menyuam mos thiab cov menyuam yaus nkag mus, "frocks," pob taws-ntev versions ntawm cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho, hloov cov tawv nqaij tawv thiab cov petticoats los ntawm xyoo 1760. Cov khaub ncaws hnav los ntawm cov menyuam yaus kuj tau dhau los ua kev nruj me ntsis hauv lub sijhawm kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua kaum yim. Txog rau thaum xyoo 1770, thaum cov tub hluas raug breeched, lawv yeej tseem ceeb ntawm cov petticoats ntawm thaum yau mus rau cov laus txiv neej cov khaub ncaws tsim nyog rau lawv chaw nres tsheb nyob rau hauv lub neej. Txawm hais tias cov tub hluas tseem raug breeched los ntawm txog rau los yog xya lub sijhawm xyoo 1770, lawv tam sim no pib hnav cov khaub ncaws ntau dua ntawm cov laus-cov tsho xoob-txiav thiab cov tsho qhib-caj dab nrog ruffled dab tshos-kom txog thaum lawv cov hluas thaum ntxov. Tsis tas li ntawd nyob rau xyoo 1770, tsis yog kev sib xyaw ua ke ntawm bodice thiab petticoat ntau, cov ntxhais txuas ntxiv hnav khaub ncaws-style, feem ntau accented nrog dav duav sashes, txog thaum lawv laus txaus rau cov laus cov khaub ncaws.
Cov kev hloov pauv hauv cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws no cuam tshuam rau cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws-cov khaub ncaws zoo nkauj hnav los ntawm cov poj niam fashionable ntawm 1780s thiab 1790s zoo heev zoo li cov menyuam yaus frocks tau hnav txij li ib nrab xyoo pua. Txawm li cas los xij, txoj kev loj hlob ntawm cov poj niam chemise dresses yog ntau nyuaj tshaj li cov khaub ncaws tsuas yog cov neeg laus versions ntawm cov me nyuam frocks. Pib xyoo 1770, muaj kev txav mus los ntawm cov tawv nqaij tawv mus rau cov ntaub mos mos thiab paj rwb hauv cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws, ib qho kev sib koom ua ke nrog kev txaus siab rau kev hnav khaub ncaws ntawm classical antiquity hauv 1780s thiab 1790s. Cov menyuam yaus sheer dawb paj rwb frocks, accented nrog lub duav sashes muab ib tug high-waisted saib, muab ib tug yooj yim qauv rau cov poj niam nyob rau hauv txoj kev loj hlob ntawm neoclassical fashions. Los ntawm 1800, cov poj niam, cov ntxhais, thiab cov menyuam yaus txhua tus hnav zoo sib xws, hnav ris tsho siab ua los ntawm cov khaub ncaws hnav thiab paj rwb.
Skeleton Suits for Boys
Ib yam tshiab ntawm kev hloov pauv kev hnav khaub ncaws, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog tsim rau cov tub hluas uas muaj hnub nyoog peb thiab xya xyoo, pib hnav txog 1780. Cov khaub ncaws no, hu ua "skeleton suits" vim lawv haum ze rau lub cev, muaj cov pob taws-ntev trousers khawm rau ntawm lub tsho luv luv hnav tshaj lub tsho nrog lub dab tshos dav edged hauv ruffles. Cov ris tsho, uas yog los ntawm cov chav kawm qis thiab cov khaub ncaws tub rog, tau txheeb xyuas cov pob txha zoo li cov txiv neej cov khaub ncaws, tab sis tib lub sijhawm muab lawv sib nrug ntawm cov suits nrog lub hauv caug-ntev breeches hnav los ntawm cov tub hluas thiab cov txiv neej. Nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov 1800s, txawm tias tom qab trousers tau supplanted breeches raws li fashionable xaiv, lub jumpsuit zoo li lub cev pob txha suits, yog li tsis zoo li txiv neej suits nyob rau hauv style, tseem txuas ntxiv raws li txawv tiab rau cov tub hluas. Cov menyuam mos hauv cov ntawv hlais thiab cov menyuam yaus me hauv cov khaub ncaws, cov menyuam yaus hauv lub cev pob txha, thiab cov tub hluas uas hnav cov tsho caj dab kom txog thaum lawv cov hluas, qhia txog tus cwj pwm tshiab uas ua rau menyuam yaus txuas ntxiv mus rau cov tub hluas, faib ua peb theem ntawm cov menyuam mos, menyuam yaus, thiab hluas.
Nineteenth Century Layettes
Nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19, cov me nyuam mos cov khaub ncaws txuas ntxiv nyob rau hauv qhov chaw ntawm qhov kawg ntawm lub xyoo pua dhau los. Cov menyuam yug tshiab layettes muaj cov khaub ncaws ntev ntev (cov khaub ncaws ntev) thiab ntau lub tsho hauv qab, nruab hnub thiab hmo ntuj lub kaus mom, napkins (diapers), petticoats, nightgowns, thom khwm, ntxiv rau ib lossis ob lub tsho sab nrauv. Cov khaub ncaws no tau tsim los ntawm cov niam los yog muab los ntawm cov khaub ncaws hnav, nrog cov layettes npaj txhij muaj nyob rau thaum xyoo 1800s. Thaum nws muaj peev xwm mus rau hnub tim kaum cuaj-xyoo pua tus me nyuam hnav khaub ncaws raws li kev hloov pauv hloov pauv hauv kev txiav thiab hom thiab kev tso kawm ntawm trims, cov khaub ncaws yooj yim hloov me ntsis dhau lub xyoo pua. Cov me nyuam hnav khaub ncaws feem ntau yog ua los ntawm cov paj rwb dawb vim nws tau yooj yim ntxuav thiab bleached thiab tau styled nrog lub cev los yog yokes thiab daim tiab ntev. Vim hais tias muaj ntau yam dresses kuj ornately trimmed nrog paj ntaub thiab lace, niaj hnub no cov tsoos tsho feem ntau yuam kev raws li lub caij tshwj xeeb attire. Feem ntau ntawm cov khaub ncaws no, txawm li cas los xij, yog cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub-tus qauv me nyuam "uniforms" ntawm lub sijhawm. Thaum cov menyuam mos ua haujlwm ntau dua ntawm plaub thiab yim lub hlis, lawv tau mus rau hauv cov menyuam mos liab ntev ntev (cov khaub ncaws luv). Los ntawm ib nrab xyoo pua, cov yeeb yuj luam tawm tau txais kev nyiam rau cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws.
Nkauj tawm tshiab 2019
Kev cai dab qhuas ntawm cov me nyuam tub tawm hauv cov khaub ncaws rau txiv neej cov khaub ncaws txuas ntxiv hu ua "breeching" nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua puv 19, txawm hais tias tam sim no cov ris tsho, tsis yog breeches, yog cov cim txiv neej tsoos tsho. Lub ntsiab tseem ceeb ntawm kev txiav txim siab lub hnub nyoog breeching yog lub sij hawm nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua thaum ib tug me nyuam tub yug los, ntxiv rau niam txiv nyiam thiab tus tub txoj kev loj hlob. Thaum pib ntawm xyoo 1800, cov tub hluas tau mus rau hauv lawv lub cev pob txha thaum muaj hnub nyoog peb xyoos, hnav cov ris tsho no kom txog thaum lawv muaj rau lossis xya xyoo. Tunic suits nrog lub hauv caug-ntev tunic hnav ris tsho ntev ntev tau pib hloov cov pob txha suits thaum xyoo 1820s, nyob hauv kev zam mus txog thaum ntxov 1860s. Thaum lub sij hawm no, cov tub hluas tsis raug suav hais tias yog raug cai kom txog thaum lawv hnav ris tsho tsis muaj tunic overdresses thaum muaj hnub nyoog rau los yog xya. Ib zaug breeched, cov tub hluas hnav khaub ncaws hnav, lub duav-ntev-ntev tsho kom txog rau thaum lawv cov hluas thaum ntxov, thaum lawv hnav cov tsho luv luv nrog lub hauv caug-ntev tails, qhia tias lawv thaum kawg tau ua tiav tag nrho cov neeg laus sartorial.
Los ntawm xyoo 1860 txog rau xyoo 1880, cov tub hluas los ntawm plaub mus rau xya lub tsho hnav ris tsho uas feem ntau yog yooj yim dua li cov ntxhais cov qauv uas muaj xim zoo nkauj thiab luas lossis "txiv neej" cov ntsiab lus xws li lub tsho khuam. Knickerbockers los yog knickers, lub hauv caug-ntev ris rau cov tub hluas hnub nyoog xya mus rau kaum plaub, tau qhia txog 1860. Nyob rau peb caug xyoo tom ntej no, cov tub hluas tau breeched rau hauv cov knickers nrov outfits thaum yau thiab yau. Cov knickers hnav los ntawm cov tub hluas tshaj plaws los ntawm peb mus rau rau tau ua ke nrog cov tsho luv luv tshaj li lace-collared blouses, belted tunics, los yog neeg caij nkoj saum. Cov khaub ncaws no sib txawv heev rau cov qauv hnav los ntawm lawv cov kwv tij laus, uas nws cov knickers suits tau tailored wool tsho, lub tsho tawv tawv, thiab plaub-hauv-tes. Txij xyoo 1870 mus txog xyoo 1940, qhov sib txawv loj ntawm cov txiv neej thiab cov tub ntxhais kawm cov khaub ncaws yog cov txiv neej hnav ris ntev thiab cov tub hluas, luv luv. Thaum kawg ntawm 1890s, thaum lub hnub nyoog breeching tau poob los ntawm ib nrab xyoo pua siab ntawm rau los yog xya mus rau ntawm ob thiab peb, lub ntsiab lus ntawm cov tub hluas pib hnav ris ntev tau nquag pom tias yog ib qho kev tshwm sim tseem ceeb tshaj li breeching.
Cov Ntxhais Hluas Nkauj
Txawm li cas los xij, tsis zoo li cov tub hluas, vim cov ntxhais xyoo pua cuaj puas loj hlob lawv cov khaub ncaws tsis tau hloov pauv ntau. Cov poj niam hnav ris tsho hnav ris tsho thoob plaws hauv lawv lub neej txij li thaum yau mus txog hnub nyoog laus; Txawm li cas los xij, cov khaub ncaws txiav thiab cov ntsiab lus style tau hloov nrog lub hnub nyoog. Qhov sib txawv tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm cov ntxhais thiab cov poj niam hnav khaub ncaws yog tias cov menyuam yaus hnav khaub ncaws luv dua, maj mam lengthening mus rau hauv pem teb ntev los ntawm nruab nrab-xyoo-laus. Thaum cov qauv neoclassical nyob rau hauv kev zam nyob rau hauv thaum ntxov xyoo pua, cov poj niam ntawm tag nrho cov muaj hnub nyoog thiab cov me nyuam me tub hluas hnav zoo li styled, high-waisted dresses nrog nqaim columnar tiab. Lub sijhawm no, luv luv ntawm cov menyuam hnav khaub ncaws yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm qhov txawv ntawm lawv cov khaub ncaws neeg laus.
Txij li xyoo 1830 thiab mus rau nruab nrab xyoo 1860, thaum cov poj niam hnav lub duav-ntev-ntev bodices thiab daim tiab tag nrho hauv ntau hom, feem ntau hnav khaub ncaws hnav los ntawm cov tub hluas thiab cov ntxhais hluas tau zoo sib xws ntau dua li cov poj niam fashions. Tus cwj pwm "tus me nyuam" hnav khaub ncaws ntawm lub sijhawm no muaj lub ntsej muag dav dav ntawm lub xub pwg caj dab, luv luv puffed lossis lub kaus mom lub tsho, ib lub cev tsis haum uas feem ntau sib sau ua ke rau hauv ib lub duav, thiab ib daim tiab tag nrho uas muaj qhov sib txawv ntawm qhov ntev ntawm me ntsis hauv qab hauv caug. ntev rau cov me nyuam me mus rau calf ntev rau cov ntxhais hlob. Hnav khaub ncaws ntawm qhov tsim no, ua los ntawm cov paj rwb los yog ntaub plaub hau challis, yog cov khaub ncaws niaj hnub rau cov ntxhais kom txog thaum lawv mus rau hauv cov poj niam laus cov khaub ncaws hauv lawv cov hluas. Cov ntxhais thiab cov tub hluas hnav cov ris tsho dawb hauv qab pob taws, hu ua pantaloons lossis pantalets, hauv qab lawv hnav. Hauv xyoo 1820, thaum pantalets tau nthuav tawm thawj zaug, cov ntxhais hnav lawv ua rau muaj kev tsis sib haum xeeb vim tias cov tsoos tsho bifurcated ntawm txhua tus qauv sawv cev rau txiv neej. Maj mam pantalets tau txais rau ob leeg ntxhais thiab cov poj niam ua ris tsho hauv qab, thiab raws li "private" poj niam hnav ris tsho tsis ua rau muaj kev hem thawj rau txiv neej lub zog. Rau cov me nyuam tub, pantalets 'txoj cai li poj niam ris tsho hauv qab txhais tau hais tias, txawm tias pantalets yog cov ris tsho, lawv tsis tau saib zoo li cov tub hluas ris tsho hnav thaum lawv raug breeched.
Qee cov menyuam yaus nruab nrab-19th-xyoo pua hnav khaub ncaws, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog cov khaub ncaws zoo tshaj plaws rau cov ntxhais tshaj kaum, tau qhia txog cov poj niam cov qauv nrog tam sim no lub tes tsho fashionable, bodice, thiab trim cov ntsiab lus. Cov qauv no tau nrawm dua thaum xyoo 1860s thaum bustle style tuaj rau hauv kev zam. Cov menyuam yaus hnav khaub ncaws tau hais tawm cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws nrog ntxiv rov qab puv, ntau dua elaborate trims, thiab ib qho tshiab txiav uas siv Princess seaming rau shaping. Ntawm qhov siab ntawm bustle qhov chaw nyob rau hauv 1870s thiab 1880s, dresses rau cov ntxhais ntawm cuaj thiab kaum plaub tau haum bodices nrog tiab uas draped tshaj me bustles, txawv nyob rau hauv ntev ntawm cov poj niam cov khaub ncaws. Nyob rau xyoo 1890, cov khaub ncaws hnav yooj yim dua nrog pleated tiab thiab cov neeg caij nkoj blouses lossis tiab nrog cov tiab tag nrho sib sau ua ke rau lub cev yoked qhia tias cov khaub ncaws tau dhau los ua qhov ua tau zoo rau cov menyuam kawm ntawv uas nquag nquag.
Rompers rau cov me nyuam
Cov ntsiab lus tshiab ntawm kev tu menyuam yaus hais txog kev loj hlob ntawm cov menyuam yaus tau muaj kev cuam tshuam loj heev rau cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws pib thaum xyoo pua xyoo pua. Cov kev tshawb fawb niaj hnub no txhawb nqa kev nkag mus rau hauv cov kauj ruam tseem ceeb hauv kev loj hlob ntawm cov menyuam yaus, thiab ib daim rompers nrog cov paj zoo li cov ris tsho, hu ua "creeping aprons," tau tsim nyob rau xyoo 1890 raws li npog-ups rau luv luv dawb dresses hnav los ntawm cov me nyuam mos nkag. Tsis ntev, cov me nyuam nquag ntawm ob qho tib si poj niam txiv neej hnav rompers tsis muaj cov ris tsho hauv qab. Txawm hais tias muaj kev sib cav ua ntej txog cov poj niam hnav ris, rompers tau txais yam tsis muaj kev sib cav sib ceg li cov khaub ncaws ua si rau cov menyuam yaus, dhau los ua thawj cov ris tsho unisex.
Cov phau ntawv menyuam mos rau xyoo 1910 muaj qhov chaw rau cov niam txiv kom nco ntsoov thaum lawv cov menyuam yaus thawj zaug hnav "cov khaub ncaws luv," tab sis lub sijhawm no-kev hloov pauv ntawm cov hnav dawb ntev mus rau luv luv tau dhau los ua ib yam ntawm yav dhau los. Los ntawm xyoo 1920, cov me nyuam mos hnav luv luv, dawb hnav khaub ncaws txij thaum yug mus txog rau lub hlis nrog ntev dresses relegated rau ceremonial hnav li christening gowns. Cov menyuam mos tshiab tseem hnav luv luv rau xyoo 1950, txawm hais tias los ntawm lub sijhawm no, cov tub hluas tsuas yog ua li ntawd rau thawj ob peb lub lis piam ntawm lawv lub neej.
Raws li rompers styles rau ob hnub thiab hmo ntuj hnav hloov khaub ncaws, lawv tau los ua lub xyoo pua nees nkaum "uniforms" rau cov menyuam mos thiab cov menyuam yaus. Thawj rompers tau ua los ntawm cov xim tawv thiab cov gingham checks, muab qhov sib txawv zoo rau cov me nyuam mos dawb. Nyob rau xyoo 1920, cov paj paj zoo nkauj thiab tsiaj motifs pib tshwm rau ntawm cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws. Thaum xub thawj cov qauv no yog unisex li cov rompers lawv dai kom zoo nkauj, tab sis maj mam qee cov motifs tau txuam nrog ntau nrog ib tug poj niam los yog lwm yam - piv txwv li, dev thiab nruas nrog cov tub thiab kittens thiab paj nrog cov ntxhais. Thaum xws li kev sib deev-typed motifs tshwm sim ntawm cov khaub ncaws, lawv tau xaiv txawm tias cov qauv uas zoo tib yam hauv kev txiav xws li "tub" lossis "ntxhais" khaub ncaws. Niaj hnub no, muaj ntau ntawm cov me nyuam cov khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv kev ua lag luam dai kom zoo nkauj nrog cov tsiaj, paj, kis las paraphernalia, cartoons, los yog lwm yam icons ntawm nrov kab lis kev cai-feem ntau ntawm cov motifs muaj txiv neej los yog poj niam connotations nyob rau hauv peb lub neej thiab yog li ua cov tsoos tsho uas. lawv tshwm.
Colors and Gender Association
Cov xim siv rau cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws kuj muaj cov cim poj niam txiv neej-hnub no, qhov no feem ntau suav nrog xiav rau cov menyuam mos liab thiab liab dawb rau cov ntxhais. Txawm li cas los xij nws tau siv ntau xyoo rau qhov xim xim no los ua tus qauv. Paj yeeb thiab xiav tau cuam tshuam nrog poj niam txiv neej los ntawm xyoo 1910s, thiab muaj kev siv zog ntxov los kho cov xim rau ib tug poj niam los yog lwm tus, raws li tau piav qhia los ntawm 1916 nqe lus los ntawm cov ntawv luam tawm Cov Menyuam mos thiab Cov Menyuam Hnav Rov Qab: "[T] nws feem ntau lees txais txoj cai yog liab dawb rau tus tub thiab xiav rau tus ntxhais. "Txij li thaum xyoo 1939, Parents Magazine tsab xov xwm hais txog qhov tseeb tias vim paj yeeb yog xim daj ntseg liab, xim ntawm kev ua tsov ua rog vajtswv Mars, nws tsim nyog rau cov tub hluas, thaum xiav lub koom haum nrog Venus thiab Madonna ua nws xim rau cov ntxhais. Hauv kev xyaum, cov xim tau siv sib hloov rau cov tub hluas thiab ntxhais cov khaub ncaws kom txog rau thaum tom qab Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb thib 2, thaum kev sib koom ua ke ntawm pej xeem kev xav thiab cov neeg tsim khoom tsim cov paj yeeb rau cov ntxhais thiab xiav rau cov tub-ib lo lus uas tseem muaj tseeb niaj hnub no.
Txawm tias muaj txoj cai no, txawm li cas los xij, xiav tseem tso cai rau cov ntxhais cov khaub ncaws thaum liab liab raug tso tseg rau cov tub hluas hnav khaub ncaws. Qhov tseeb tias cov ntxhais tuaj yeem hnav cov xim liab (poj niam) thiab xiav (txiv neej) xim, thaum cov tub hluas hnav tsuas yog xiav, qhia txog ib qho tseem ceeb sib txawv pib thaum xyoo 1800s: dhau sij hawm, tsoos tsho, trims, lossis xim ib zaug hnav los ntawm ob tug tub hluas thiab cov ntxhais, tab sis kev lig kev cai nrog poj niam khaub ncaws, tau dhau los ua qhov tsis tsim nyog rau cov tub hluas khaub ncaws. Raws li cov tub hluas hnav ris tsho loj hlob tsawg "feminine" thaum lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, txo qis trimmings thiab ornamental cov ntsiab lus xws li lace thiab ruffles, cov ntxhais cov khaub ncaws ntau dua "txiv neej." Ib qho piv txwv ntawm qhov kev vam meej no tshwm sim nyob rau xyoo 1970, thaum cov niam txiv koom nrog "tsis muaj menyuam yaus" txhawb nqa cov menyuam yaus rau "poj niam txiv neej-dawb" khaub ncaws. Ironically, qhov tshwm sim cov ris tsho hnav ris tsho tsuas yog poj niam txiv neej-dawb nyob rau hauv qhov kev nkag siab tias lawv siv cov qauv, xim, thiab trims tam sim no siv tau rau cov tub hluas, tshem tawm ib qho "feminine" decorations xws li paj ntaub los yog ruffled trim.
Modern Children's Wear
Tau lub xyoo pua nees nkaum, cov uas yav tas los cov txiv neej nkaus xwb-tsuas yog ris tsho-trousers-tau txais kev hnav ris tsho rau cov ntxhais thiab cov poj niam. Raws li cov menyuam yaus me nyuam yaus nthuav tawm lawv cov rompers hauv xyoo 1920, cov khaub ncaws ua si tshiab rau cov menyuam muaj hnub nyoog peb mus rau tsib xyoos, tsim nrog cov ris tsho hauv qab hnav luv luv, yog thawj cov khaub ncaws los txuas rau lub hnub nyoog uas cov ntxhais tuaj yeem hnav ris. Los ntawm xyoo 1940, cov ntxhais ntawm txhua lub hnub nyoog hnav ris tsho hauv tsev thiab rau cov xwm txheej hauv zej zog, tab sis lawv tseem xav tau-yog tias tsis tas yuav tsum hnav khaub ncaws thiab tiab rau tsev kawm ntawv, tsev teev ntuj, tog, thiab txawm tias mus yuav khoom. Txog xyoo 1970, cov ris tsho 'cov txiv neej muaj zog sib txuas tau tawg mus rau qhov chaw uas tsev kawm ntawv thiab chaw ua haujlwm hnav khaub ncaws thaum kawg tau txiav txim siab rau cov poj niam thiab cov poj niam. Niaj hnub no, cov ntxhais tuaj yeem hnav ris tsho hnav ris tsho hauv txhua qhov kev sib raug zoo. Ntau yam ntawm cov ris tsho no, xws li cov ris tsho xiav, yog qhov tseem ceeb unisex hauv kev tsim thiab txiav, tab sis ntau lwm tus nyiam sib deev-typed los ntawm kev kho kom zoo nkauj thiab xim.
Khawv koob txij thaum yau mus rau thaum hluas
Txoj Kev Hluas yeej ib txwm yog lub sijhawm sib tw thiab sib cais rau cov menyuam yaus thiab niam txiv tab sis, ua ntej xyoo pua nees nkaum, cov hluas tsis niaj hnub qhia lawv txoj kev ywj pheej los ntawm qhov tsos. Hloov chaw, nrog rau kev zam ntawm ob peb eccentrics, cov tub ntxhais hluas tau txais kev zam tam sim no thiab thaum kawg hnav khaub ncaws zoo li lawv niam lawv txiv. Txij li thaum ntxov xyoo pua nees nkaum, txawm li cas los xij, cov menyuam yaus tau niaj hnub qhia cov tub ntxhais hluas ntxeev siab los ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws thiab tsos, feem ntau nrog cov qauv zoo sib xws nrog cov qauv hnav ris tsho. Lub jazz tiam ntawm xyoo 1920 yog thawj zaug los tsim ib qho kev coj noj coj ua ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas tshwj xeeb, nrog rau txhua tiam neeg ua tiav nws qhov kev sib tw tshwj xeeb. Tab sis cov tub ntxhais hluas vogues xws li bobby sox hauv xyoo 1940s lossis poodle tiab hauv xyoo 1950 tsis tau muaj kev cuam tshuam ntau rau cov neeg laus niaj hnub hnav khaub ncaws thiab, thaum cov hluas tau hloov mus rau hauv cov neeg laus, lawv tau tso tseg cov fads. Nws tsis yog txog thaum xyoo 1960, thaum cov menyuam yaus-boom tiam neeg nkag mus rau cov hluas uas nyiam nyiam los ntawm cov hluas, xws li miniskirts, cov txiv neej muaj yeeb yuj, los yog "hippie" ris tsho thiab T-shirts, usurped ntau conservative neeg laus style thiab tau los ua ib qho tseem ceeb ntawm cov mainstream. zam. Txij thaum ntawd los, kev coj noj coj ua ntawm cov tub ntxhais hluas tau txuas ntxiv muaj feem cuam tshuam rau kev zam, nrog ntau yam kev ua tsis pom kev ntawm cov menyuam yaus thiab cov neeg laus cov khaub ncaws.
Saib cov khau menyuam yaus; Teenage Fashion.
Bibliography
Ashelford, Jane. Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust Enterprises Limited, 1996. Keeb kwm ntawm kev hnav khaub ncaws nrog ib tshooj zoo piav qhia ntawm cov menyuam hnav khaub ncaws.
Buck, Anne. Khaub ncaws thiab Menyuam Yaus: Phau Ntawv Qhia Txog Menyuam Yaus Hauv Tebchaws Askiv, 1500-1900. New York: Holmes thiab Meier, 1996. Saib tag nrho cov khaub ncaws Askiv menyuam yaus, txawm hais tias lub koom haum ntawm cov khoom siv tsis meej pem.
Callahan, Colleen, thiab Jo B. Paoletti. Puas yog ib tug ntxhais los yog ib tug tub? Poj niam txiv neej thiab khaub ncaws menyuam yaus. Richmond, Va.: Lub Tsev khaws puav pheej Valentine, 1999. Phau ntawv luam tawm ua ke nrog kev nthuav qhia ntawm tib lub npe.
Calvert, Karin. Cov Me Nyuam Hauv Tsev: Cov Khoom Siv Khoom ntawm Cov Me Nyuam Thaum Ntxov, 1600-1900. Boston: Northeastern University Press, 1992. Cov ntsiab lus zoo heev ntawm kev yug me nyuam txoj kev xav thiab kev xyaum raws li lawv muaj feem xyuam rau cov khoom thaum yau, suav nrog khaub ncaws, khoom ua si, thiab rooj tog.
Rose, Clare. Cov Khaub Ncaws Me Nyuam Yaus Txij li xyoo 1750. New York: Drama Book Publshers, 1989. Txheej txheem cej luam ntawm cov menyuam yaus cov khaub ncaws rau xyoo 1985 uas tau piav qhia zoo nrog cov duab ntawm cov menyuam yaus thiab cov ris tsho tiag tiag.
