Keeb kwm ntawm kev ua yeeb yam pleev xim yog nplua nuj thiab ntau yam. Tib neeg muaj ntau txhiab xyoo nrhiav kev qhia lawv tus kheej los ntawm kev ua yeeb yam, thiab kev pleev xim nrog yog lub ntuj tsim tawm ntawm daim duab zoo nkauj no.
Los ntawm lo lus Greek rau "kev nqis tes ua", ua yeeb yam thiab kev ua yeeb yam yog qhov tseeb nrog cov yeeb yam ntawm cov cim tshwj xeeb thiab cov sawv cev. Cov ntaub ntawv ua yeeb yam ntxov tshaj plaws yog suav tias yog Aristotle's Poetics sau nyob ib puag ncig 335 BCE, tab sis thawj cov pov thawj ntawm kev ua yeeb yam tuaj tom qab, nyob ib ncig ntawm lub xyoo pua 6 BC.
Earliest History of Theatre Makeup
Qhov ntxov tshaj plaws siv cov pleev pleev ua yeeb yam yog los ntawm Greek actor Thespis, uas, hauv kev sib zog los sawv tawm ntawm Greek chorus, pleev xim rau cov xim dawb ntawm cov hmoov lead dawb thiab mercuric sulfide los tsim cov xim dawb thiab xim liab.. Nws tau sib cav seb puas muaj cov tshuaj lom no txuas ntxiv siv rau hauv Greek ua yeeb yam vim tias lub qhov ncauj qhov ntswg uas sawv cev rau kev lom zem thiab xwm txheej (raws li cov muses Thalia thiab Melpomene), tau siv los qhia. Txawm hais tias kev ua yeeb yam tam sim no siv kev pleev xim ua yeeb yam los qhia tus cwj pwm, thiab lub ntsej muag qhia thiab lub suab los qhia kev xav, cov ntsej muag Greek no tseem muaj nyob rau tam sim no lub cim rau kev ua yeeb yam.
Siv Theatre Makeup Grow and Evolves
Kev siv pleev rau kev ua yeeb yam zoo li tau dhau los ua ntau dua hauv 1500s thiab 1600s. Nyob rau xyoo 1500, cov neeg ua yeeb yam hauv kev ua yeeb yam medieval kev ntseeg tau siv lub ntsej muag pleev xim los piav txog qee cov cim. Cov neeg ua yeeb yam hauv Elizabethan England siv chalk thiab soot ntawm lawv lub ntsej muag los piav qhia cov cim thiab qhia. False pleev hwj txwv kuj tau tshwm sim ntawm cov neeg ua yeeb yam. Tsis tas li ntawd nyob rau lub sijhawm no, Japanese Kabuki ua yeeb yam tau tshwm sim, thiab cov neeg ua yeeb yam hnav lub ntsej muag zoo nkauj.
Pigments thiab Powder
Cov xim pleev xim rau lub ntsej muag siv nyob rau hauv cov xyoo caum thaum ntxov tau hloov zuj zus mus rau ntau txoj hauv kev nrog qhov tshwm sim ntawm lub hnub nyoog kev lag luam. Nrog rau cov teeb pom kev zoo muaj rau kev tsim khoom, nws tau los ua qhov tsim nyog uas cov neeg ua yeeb yam muaj qhov zoo nkauj dua. Ntxiv nrog rau cov lus hais yav dhau los, ua ntej nruab nrab xyoo 1800, cov khoom siv pleev xim suav nrog cov hmoov dawb los yog chalk, hlawv cork thiab ntawv, thiab xim hmoov.
Greasepaint
Greasepaint yog ib qho kev tsim tshwj xeeb uas yog kev txhim kho loj rau ob theem thiab zaj duab xis. Tsim los ntawm ib tug neeg ua yeeb yam German, cov xim tau ua tiav los ntawm kev sib txuas lard nrog pigments. Qhov tshwm sim yog ib daim ntawv thov smoother thiab ntau yam. Npaj cov roj pleev xim tom qab tau tsim rau kev muag khoom muag. Ntau yam khoom, xws li lipsticks, kua liners, waxes, thiab pleev nplaum tau qhia raws li xyoo 1900s los txog.
Pancake Makeup
Lwm qhov kev hloov pauv loj hauv theem pleev tau tshwm sim xyoo 1914 thaum lub cim Max Factor tsim pancake pleev, uas yog dej pleev xim uas muab cov tuab, matte. Qhov kev tsim kho tshiab no tau nce mus txog niaj hnub no, txawm hais tias cov qauv tau txuas ntxiv mus.
Modern Theatre Makeup
Kev ua yeeb yam niaj hnub ua yeeb yam tau los ntawm cov tshuaj tsis zoo thiab cov txheej txheem ntxhib ntawm nws qhov kev siv thaum ntxov. Daim duab kos duab tiag tiag, niaj hnub ua yeeb yam pleev xim zoo li ntau yam los ntawm kev pleev xim uas yog qhov tseeb saib, txawm tias hnyav dua li daim ntawv thov kom zoo nkauj, mus rau cov yam ntxwv txawv txawv, tsiaj, lub sijhawm, cov teebmeem tshwj xeeb, thiab avant garde pleev zoo li. Cov khoom xyaw hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce niaj hnub no tseem muaj kev nyab xeeb rau daim tawv nqaij es tsis muaj cov tshuaj lom lossis cov lus nug. Qee yam ntawm cov khoom lag luam niaj hnub no ntawm theem pleev xim muaj xws li:
- Ben Nye
- Kryolan
- Mehron
Resources for In Depth Theatrical Makeup History
Rau qhov tob tob saib hauv keeb kwm kev ua yeeb yam, muaj ntau yam kev xaiv. Txawm hais tias cov kev xaiv tsis dav hauv online, qee qhov chaw hnav khaub ncaws thiab pleev xim muaj cov ntaub ntawv keeb kwm pleev xim nrog rau cov ntaub ntawv. ntawm kev pleev xim rau theem, xws li:
- Costumes.org
- FX Supply
Phau ntawv thiab cov chav kawm tuaj yeem pab koj kawm paub ntau ntxiv txog keeb kwm ntawm kev pleev xim ua yeeb yam. Ntau lub tsev kawm ntawv qib siab muaj cov kev kawm ua yeeb yam thiab keeb kwm ua yeeb yam, thiab txawm tias koj tsis xav kawm txog kev ua yeeb yam, ntau qhov chaw tso cai rau kev kawm kom tau txais txiaj ntsig zoo. Cov chav kawm hauv keeb kwm ntawm theem pleev kuj feem ntau muaj raws li qhov yuav tsum tau ua lossis kev xaiv rau kev pleev xim pleev xim. Tej zaum koj kuj yuav txaus siab rau cov ntawv hauv qab no ntawm cov ntsiab lus:
- Stage Makeup los ntawm Richard Corson
- Stage Makeup: Kauj Ruam los ntawm Rosemarie Swinfield
- Costume and Makeup los ntawm Michael Holt
